There was a collective sigh of disappointment when just a few months ago, Patek Philippe announced that it would not be unveiling new watches in 2020. Well, it seems the watchmaking giant has changed its mind.
First to be unveiled is Ref. 6007A, a limited-edition Calatrava to commemorate the completion of the company’s new production building in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. The 133,650 m2 10-storey modern architecture unites all its Genevan ateliers under one roof and is meant to cater to the growing manufacture’s needs in the next 20 to 30 years.
Limited to 1000 pieces, Ref. 6007 Calatrava is offered in steel and features an embossed carbon pattern in the dial centre. While naysayers have been quick to remark at how the watch appears “uncharacteristically Patek”, it takes its inspiration from 2017’s Ref. 6006 Calatrava (which, succeeded Ref. 6000 from 2005). All three watches share a similar dial design that is a refreshing departure from the classic and understated style expected of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava collection. Measuring 40mm in diameter, it comes with a very cool embossed grey-blue calfskin strap that’s made to look (and feel) like canvas.
Making its way into Patek Philippe’s current collection is Ref. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater, which was first unveiled in 2019 as part of the collection of five limited editions released during the brand’s Grand Exhibition in Singapore.
A glorious tribute to Patek Philippe’s savoir faire in acoustic watches, it features an open worked dial that provides an unobstructed view of the intricate minute repeater mechanism, as well as the tourbillon at 6 o’clock – exposed for the first time in a Patek Philippe wristwatch. (Tourbillon escapements have traditionally been kept hidden from the dial as a form of protection from exposure to sunlight; for this reason, a sapphire disc coated with UV protection has been placed over the escapement on Ref. 5303R).
Some slight aesthetic differences between this new model and the Singapore edition include the colours on the hour ring and small seconds hand, the stitching on the strap, as well as the striping on the rose gilt plate.
Ref. 5270, the heir to Patek Philippe’s 1941 classic, Ref. 1518, is offered this year for the first time in yellow gold. First introduced in 2011, its last iteration was in 2018 with a platinum case and a trendy salmon pink dial. The watch is powered by Patek Philippe’s inhouse manufactured caliber CH 29-535 PS, its first in-house manual wind chronograph movement and one that combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations.
Finally, proudly featuring a new blue Grand Feu enamel dial is the Ref 5370P that was first introduced with a black dial in 2015. A true horological masterpiece, it is endowed with the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS, features a split seconds chronograph (a complication that the manufacture has mastered since 1923), and is known to be one of the most beautiful watches in Patek Philippe’s current collection.