The dust may have settled on yet another fashion month, but the recently concluded men’s spring/summer 2020 show season offered us plenty to think about. For starters, streetwear’s influence is on a decline, and we’re seeing a return to elegance that’s a result of tailoring making a solid comeback. Designers are draping their collections in pastel hues (you’ll want to take note of this major trend come spring) and reworking what gender-neutral dressing looks like. The message is clear: Spring/summer 2020 is the season to go bold and fearless. Here are five of our favourite collections.
Anthony Vaccarello’s sophomore men’s-only collection for Saint Laurent is proof he has gained momentum at the esteemed Parisian House. Held along a beach in Malibu, the show yielded plenty of garments fuelled by a carefree bohemian spirit. Gauzy knits, sheer blouses and harem-style pants transported the mind to Marrakech (the city that was a sanctuary for the late Yves Saint Laurent), while marching band jackets, denim shorts and sleek suits gave us more reason to dream of California.
Craft is the beating heart of Jonathan Anderson’s collections for the Spanish brand. This season, he utilised Loewe’s know-how to construct clothes for his troop of youthful, hippie explorers. Anderson came up with suede caftans, long tunics, oversized knits, billowing leather trousers, sandals and a multitude of bags that brought fashion to a fantastical dimension.
Clare Waight Keller staged her first menswear collection for Givenchy on the grounds of Villa Palmieri, a magnificent monument that overlooks Florence. Restrained in its execution and approach, the collection was full of contemporary flourishes. For example, jackets were cut from technical cotton with a futuristic gleam, while lightweight anoraks and innovative parkas brought Korean fabrics to the fore.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
The 61-year-old master of colour and print can do no wrong in our books. For spring/summer 2020, Van Noten rolled out a collection that was as multifaceted as the striking patterns spotted on the catwalk. Leopard prints were contrasted with florals, while checks were matched with pinstripes. The designer also toyed with the masculine-feminine divide with bold-shouldered suits that were nipped tightly at the waist.
What’s particularly noteworthy about Kim Jones’ remake of Dior Men is how he’s managed to bring in a couture element to the collections. A suit jacket attached with a sash, for example, is one of Jones’ many tributes to the craft form. For spring/summer 2020, Jones brought back various reiterations of this elegant combination and placed it among languid coats, sheer bomber jackets and utilitarian jumpsuits—the latter hinted at Jones’s predilection for an adventure.