Review: Have Deconstructed Kway Chup And Uncommon Steak Cuts At Meadesmoore

Set on the upper floor of a shophouse on Boon Tat Street, Meadesmoore is Fat Belly’s new sister restaurant helmed by Chef Victor Loy.

Formerly Fat Belly Social Steakhouse, the restaurant pays homage to the grand American and British steakhouses of the early 1900s – blended with an appreciation for modern and adventurous appetites.

Behind a heavy door lies a refined yet warm dining space – with sophisticated dark teal interiors and seating. The tables are bathed in natural light pouring through large street-facing windows, and the intimate setting makes it easy to forget the CBD bustle nearby.

Using premium meats sourced exclusively from award-winning producers in Australia, Spain and the US, they champion food sustainability and maintain the Fat Belly tradition of using secondary cuts of meat.

The dining experience starts with a selection of bold and unconventional sharing plates. The Breaded Pig’s Head nuggets are inspired by the quintessential kway chap, with pieces of slow-braised pig’s head that are breaded, deep-fried and served with a lemon mayonnaise dip.

Tossed in caramelised nduja, the Baby Octopus Piperade is lightly grilled with piquillo peppers and a touch of balsamic vinegar. To add a familiar Asian touch, the dish is garnished with deep-fried pig skin in the form of a cracker.

Meadesmoore’s main crowd-pleaser is its range of Large Format Steaks that include prime cuts, like the Côte de boeuf, as well as alternative cuts, like the Flat Iron, Rib Cap and Zabuton. Instead of butter, the restaurant uses beef fat to bring out the flavours of the meat. Depending on the size of the cuts, these plates can serve up to four diners.

Like in most steakhouses, the Côte de boeuf (Prime rib) is a highlight. Anticipate deep, earthy flavours, as Meadesmoore’s Galician Vintage Prime Rib comes from free-range cows that only eat grass, matured to at least 60 months. Cut from the chuck or shoulder of the cow, their tender and succulent Wagyu Flat Iron is delightful.

For those craving something richer, the Rib Cap – the outer layer surrounding the ribeye – is a rare cut of meat known for its marbling, available only as part of a whole steak or roast until recently. Meademoore’s special feature is the Wagyu Zabuton – a chuck cut from the cow’s ribcage and shoulder blade. With a very limited yield from each head of cattle, it has an excellent meat-to-fat ratio and is tender with a robust flavour.

Enjoy the steaks with an assortment of sauces made from scratch – including the classic French choron and Bordelaise sauces.

The sides are anything but afterthoughts – crafted with a combination of classic and inventive flavours.

The Maitake Mushroom is rich – grilled fungi brushed with homemade garum, topped with shaved salted egg yolk and served in a pool of tangy brown mustard sauce made with onions and Madeira wine in veal jus.

If the words ‘mac and cheese’ invoke an image of a thick and overwhelmingly heavy combination of pasta and cheese, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. This take on the classic uses casarecce (short twists of pasta originating from Sicily) to complement the sauce – made of leeks, white wine, Grana Padano, mozzarella, blue cheese and a seasonal cheese. Coated in a layer of breadcrumbs, the dish is broiled and covered with freshly grated truffle.

Soften the flavours with treats from the dessert list. Among them is the Chocolate, Chocolate & Chocolate, featuring chocolate in 5 different forms – ganache, custard, crumble, tuile and a sorbet made with whiskey – without being overly sweet.

We are partial to the seasonal take on Eton Mess. Upon abandoning the guilt of ruining an almost too-pretty dessert, indulge in Chantilly cream rippled with raspberry and rose, mixed with pieces of meringue and fresh lychee – served in a martini glass and artfully topped with petals.

The restaurant also has a curated wine list and a lunch menu.

With a combination of new dishes and Fat Belly Social favourites, Meadesmoore offers creative culinary concepts with amiable service and an unmistakable passion for the food they make.