Durian isn’t an ingredient that plays well with others — it commands a lot of attention. So when it comes to durian desserts, it’s a tricky balance of staying comfortably between pairing the pungent pulp with flavors that end up fading into the background entirely or with those that compete for the spotlight but the jostling results in riotous perplexity. Thankfully, Goodwood Park Hotel has had plenty of experience managing that delicate equilibrium — 38 years’ worth, in fact.
Now in its 38th year, the hotel’s Durian Fiesta is back to show how it’s done. The programme runs until 1 August and features monthly specials — D24 Durian Combo from now until 31 March, selected favourites from past editions available from April through July, and Mao Shan Wang mousse cake and puffs available from 1 May to 1 August.
The first chapter of this year’s Durian Fiesta is focused on the D24 variety and features six new creations spearheaded by Executive Chef David Toh. Depending on the type of diner you are, here’s what you need to know.
For traditionalists
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Deep-fried D24 in layered flaky pastry (available only for dining in at Minjiang)
It’s durian pulp enveloped in two types of dough — one oil-based and the other water-based — kneaded together, but it’s a treat that’s greater than the sum of its parts. Reminiscent of Teochew thousand-layer mooncakes, it delights with its simplicity, and the slightly salty dough contrasts with the durian within.
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D24 kueh dadar
A riff on the Southeast Asian confection, this item sees durian pulp stuffed into a pandan-flavoured crepe, along with grated coconut cooked in gula jawa, and topped with more coconut, this time tossed in gula melaka. (By the way, this is Executive Chef David Toh’s favourite of the six, as he is a fan of local kueh.)
For mash-up mavericks
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D24 and sweet potato in chestnut tartlets
Picture the Mont Blanc, but with durian pulp instead of whipped cream and meringue, and purple sweet potato vermicelli instead of chestnut puree. The miniature domes rest atop almond cream and diced chestnut, and the sweet potato lends a delicate, almost floral fragrance to the ensemble.
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D24 pandan waffle cake
Remember the pandan waffles that are a staple at heartland bakeries? The classic snack is transformed into a cake, with durian pulp slathered in between and caramelised coconut sauce drizzled on top, finished with gula melaka coconut crumble and coconut flakes. These aren’t available by the slice, though — you’ll have to commit to a whole cake — but we’re pretty sure that won’t be a problem.
For afternoon tea aficionados
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D24 trio chocolate cake
This decadent masterpiece is composed of seven layers of chocolate mousse (dark, milk and white chocolate), durian mousse and chocolate sponge, sandwiched between a hazelnut feuilletine base and dark chocolate glaze, and topped with chocolate tuile and feathers. (But don’t take too long with the photographs: The mousse softens when it warms up.)
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Mini D24 salted caramel delights
Equal parts sweet and salty, these pack a punch, with almond sponge, salted caramel sauce and durian mousse creating a harmonious balance.
Available for takeaway or self-collection at The Deli or for dining in at Coffee Lounge, L’Espresso or Minjiang; Durian Fiesta 2021 is on until 1 August.
The Deli, Goodwood Park Hotel; Tel: 6730 1786; thedeligoodwoodparkhotel.oddle.me;