Trend Report

How Do You Want To Look In The New Normal?

Here’s your Autumn/Winter 2020 runway report.

How Do You Want To Look In The New Normal?
J.W. AndersonImage: J.W. Anderson

September is here, are you ready? Or more specifically, is your closet ready?

Incoming buys that we predict you’ll love include origami dresses from J.W. Anderson, sensual latex pieces by way of Saint Laurent and a fabulously glimmering skirt from Burberry. But if these items aren’t tickling your sartorial tastebuds yet, then here are the biggest trends of the seasons that will tempt and excite.

01 | With Warmest Wishes

When we can travel again, we’ll need a super-cute outer — like one of this season’s very on-trend shaggy coats. Banish end-of-year doldrums in an instant with Chanel’s bubblegum-pink shearling sensation. If all-over shearling is a tad OTT, Balenciaga shows how a collar trim can balance an eye-catching trench coat of turquoise-hued vinyl, while Michael Kors jazzes up classic aviator-style cropped jackets with a touch of fuzz.

ChanelImage: Chanel

02 | “Do I Look Fat In This Dress?”

Think slinky, not skinny. Daniel Lee’s sequinned column gowns — one in nude, the other in red — for Bottega Veneta is a superb study in modern femininity. At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli demonstrates his knack for party-worthy clothes with a sparkly frock that clings in all the right places. Finally, Tom Ford shows why he remains the king of high-octane glamour with an asymmetric stunner with large velvet bows.

  • Valentino
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Tom Ford

03 | Superfly

Soar high with this season’s plethora of plumed pickings. Bella Hadid channels Little Red Riding Hood in a sublime Oscar de la Renta cape of ostrich feathers, thrown over a sassy mini dress.

For Moncler, Richard Quinn’s chic padded down coats with frothy feathered panels leave us yearning for the snowy slopes all over again. And with fabulous feathered looks like a scarlet tunic — accentuated with ostrich plumage, no less — paired with cigarette pants, Clare Waight Keller shows she’s ready to leave the Givenchy nest.

  • Oscar de la Renta
  • Moncler by Richard Quinn
  • Givenchy

04 | Let’s Paint The Town Red

If menswear was a litmus test, womenswear made it official: Red is Autumn/Winter 2020’s must-have hue.

Runways were spilling over with the colour that’s synonymous with positive emotions, ranging from strength to passion. Embroidered blooms lend irresistible edge to an airy tulle thriller by Alexander McQueen, while Saint Laurent’s killer lineup features a dress in too-cool-for-school cherry-toned latex, with matchy-matchy stockings and heels. Others with scarlet showstoppers include Givenchy (caped dress), Gucci (tartan maxi skirt) and Hermès (sporty anorak coat).

  • Alexander McQueen
  • Saint Laurent
  • Givenchy

05 | Built-In Bling

We all want to feel like our most gorgeous selves — and one of these bejewelled ensembles will get us there. Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu leads the parade with coats festooned with glittering trompe l’oeil necklaces and bracelets.

Master of contemporary tongue-in-cheek Proenza Schouler juxtaposes stormy-grey velvet with a gold choker, while Schiaparelli pulls off grown-up chic with a cropped bolero jacket and gleaming armour of chain necklaces.

  • Miu Miu
  • Schiaparelli
  • J.W. AndersonImage: J.W. Anderson

06 | Say Yea For Neigh

Missed hanging out by the tracks where majestic steeds trotted freely past? Well, you can make like you did. Fashion houses looked to equestrian uniforms for various jockey-inspired looks. Victoria Beckham embellishes a flowy midi frock with deconstructed scarf prints, Tod’s lends edge to a fitted riding dress with a leather jacket, while Hermès lands a podium finish with a winsome series of cropped leather riding pants, jockey boots and oversized sports coats.

  • Victoria Beckham
  • Tod’s
  • Hermes

07 | Fringe Festival

When it comes to fringe, which school of thought are you?

Are you more traditional, seen in the ombre-dyed silk fringe dresses at Dior, or the swishy metallic number at Ferragamo? Or do you prefer something more modern, such as Stella McCartney’s macrame fringe, Bottega Veneta’s chunky tendrils or Prada’s carwash strips?



    Salvatorre Ferragamo

    Jil Sander

    Stella McCartney

    Bottega Veneta


08 | No Animals Were Harmed

Animal patterns are so last year. Autumn/Winter 2020 redefines creature comforts with prints depicting actual wildlife. Chanel brings every girl’s childhood fantasy to life with flying unicorns on loosely-fitted collarless jackets, while Felipe Oliveira Baptista marks his earnest debut at Kenzo with kaftans and dresses bearing the label’s tiger motif in vibrant colour. Also spotted: panthers at an Alexander McQueen patchworked suit and grey shrimp all over a billowing Loewe dress.

  • Chanel
  • Kenzo
  • Alexander McQueen

09 | Velvet Underground

Rather than default to black, designers have reinterpreted velvet by dipping this old-worldly fabric into assorted shades. Marni’s Francesco Risso punches up lightweight silk dresses with beautiful cobalt blue velvet. Olivier Rousteing goes bold at Balmain with a sweeping red robe trimmed with velvet lapels. Italian luxury go-to Emporio Armani enriches it in striking tones of emerald and teal.

  • Emporio Armani
  • Gucci

10 | Forties Is The New Twenties

Defined by a slimmer and more column-like silhouette, the trend also extends to boxier outerwear and softer colours. At Miu Miu, musician Rita Ora and actress Storm Reid saunter out in floor-length and reed-thin dresses and coats.

Marc Jacobs, meanwhile, proposes empire-waisted confections in a lovely spectrum of colours, Katherine Hepburn-inspired ensembles of tailored trousers and clingy knits, and swingy housecoats with matching beanies.

Marc Jacobs

11 | After-School Special

Collegiate-inspired fashion makes a resurgence, albeit with a spirit that’s more “class rebel” than “bookworm”. Donatella Versace gamely turns the trend on its head — rugby-striped shirts and cardigans worn with ultra-leggy miniskirts, anyone? — and Alessandro Michele fires up a bright green Gucci pleated skirt with a sheer blouse. Our favourite of the lot? This Burberry opposites-attract couple of college sweater and chainmail skirt.

  • Versace
  • Burberry

12 | Make Some Space, Please

As if prophesising our need for social distancing, the season abounds with bulbous silhouettes. The highlight of Max Mara’s nautical-infused collection features an oversized white coat with opaque black tights — worn by none other than Kaia Gerber during the presentation — while an origami-like composition from JW Anderson gracefully folds around your body like a kite. For the ultimate in distancing chic, look no further than Rei Kawakubo’s ruched bubble frock.

  • Max Mara
  • JW Anderson
  • Comme des Garçons

13 | This Isn’t Grandma’s Wallpaper

Tapestry returns to the fore for Autumn/Winter, refreshed with friendlier silhouettes and newer treatments. Marine Serre’s gold-flecked dress goes over a sci-fi fitted knit and matching leggings, while Proenza Schouler renders it in relief line drawings for a padded trench coat. At her BDSM-inspired show, Silvia Venturini Fendi opts for more is more by combining regular paisley motifs and leopard spots to culminate in a femme fatale–worthy pony hair coat.

  • Fendi
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Loewe

This article first appeared in the September 2020 issue of A Magazine.

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