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Menswear Autumn/Winter 2020: Revenge Spending Edition

We have seen the new normal, and here are the pieces that matter.

Menswear Autumn/Winter 2020: Revenge Spending Edition
Emporio Armani

01 | Scarlet Heart

Want to look more powerful and attractive? Then wear red, according to researchers and, for this season, fashion designers. Emporio Armani sent out sporty blousons and tailored suits in crimson and merlot, while a leather jacket in cherry successfully stole the show at Tom Ford.

Elsewhere, chilli red fired up a roomy suit at Givenchy, a handsome peacoat at Ami and a sweeping coat at Balmain.

  • Versace
  • Balenciaga

02 | Slim Pickings

Time to get on the treadmill! Swap those roomy silhouettes you spent WFH in for one of this season’s form-fitting cuts. Prada paired clingy knits in eye-catching geometric prints with reedy pants, while Raf Simons’ Blade Runner-inspired collection offered lean sweaters and outerwear that hung close to the body.

And to round up the skinny party were Marni, GmbH and Loewe, with their combos of super-slim tops and pencil-thin trousers.

  • Prada
  • Givenchy
  • Raf Simons

03 | Works Like A Dream

These are erratic times, and that makes us crave clothes that don’t just protect but are also functional. Cue these utilitarian looks, like a heavily padded coat at Bottega Veneta or a Craig Green nylon two-piece with pockets aplenty. One of the season’s standouts was Dolce & Gabbana, where a tweed coat came with pockets for screwdrivers, ground meters and wire cutters. Who said fashion was frivolous?

  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Craig Green
  • Bottega Veneta

04 | How To Do Checks Now

Yes, checks are in again. Sensing your potential fatigue for squared motifs, designers are responding in kind with catchy and new variations. Acne Studios gave theirs an interestingly marred effect. At Burberry, Riccardo Tisci spliced different fabrics together to create a collage of plaids, while Jonathen Anderson worked a floral underlay for Loewe’s creative take.

  • Acne Studios
  • Loewe

06 | Someday, Your Prints Will Come

The mono-print’s sartorial takeover kept everyone up and about. Starring in Louis Vuitton’s finale was a vibrant blue cloudscape that evoked feelings of lightness and liberty, while Alexander McQueen swished red and black brushstrokes across a suit to elegant effect. For other options, drop in at Off-White (wine bottles), Sacai (bandana) and Marni (hearts).

  • Alexander McQueen
  • Louis Vuitton

07 | Glitterati

Unleash your inner sparkle with an array of shiny new finds. At Dior Men, Kim Jones explored the codes of couture in a swingy black coat encrusted with intricately embellished feathery shapes. Using crystals, Balmain crafted a sequinned bomber jacket that’s perfect for the red carpet. At Alyx, a denim jacket was gleamed up for that extra glam factor.

  • Loewe
  • Dior Men

08 | Moves Like Jagger

Jewel-toned suiting, loosely draped shirts and sturdy boots — a look made famous by Seventies rock stars like Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger and David Bowie — garner new clout.

At Dries Van Noten, boys banded together in damask harem pants and gauzy floral shirts, while a metallic red suit at Gucci would have found favour with Ziggy Stardust himself.

Also playing to this tune was Givenchy’s suit (teamed with a Beetlejuice-inspired striped shirt, no less), Tom Ford’s satin blazers and Missoni’s snazzy moiré ensembles (thin lurex neck scarf optional).

  • Missoni
  • Gucci
  • Givenchy

09 | Facial Recognition

One of the season’s surprisingly pleasant twists is the facial motif. Contemporary menswear label Ami wove a cartoon chap onto a cream-coloured pullover, while Etro’s light grey jeans were plastered with a punkish mien. We also spotted a blurred-out Mona Lisa (Off-White) and a sea-facing lad (Lanvin).

  • Etro
  • Lanvin

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