As we ease ourselves out of forced hibernation and inch back towards normalcy we are posed with the question of appropriateness. After months of rolling out of bed straight into a zoom meeting most of us have not dealt with a garment more complicated than a T-shirt and sweats. Véronique Nichanian, creative director of Hermès menswear was motivated to reconcile our interior lives with the reemergence back into the real world for Fall/Winter 2021 with a collection that is reflective of how our lives and habits have changed.
The collection blurs the lines between formality and informality with the clashing of synthetic fabrics, supple leathers and robust cottons in silhouettes that at first glance appear dressy and slightly formal but are essentially sportswear. A great example is a pair of tapered trousers finished in a heavy cotton drill with a drawstring waistband, a track-pant at its core but tailored to perfection. It manages to be appropriate without sacrificing comfort.
Outer-wear was another key aspect of the collection with coats and parkas cut away from the body creating an enveloping silhouette that didn’t restrict movement. Fabrics like noble Prince of Wales wool were bonded on technical fabrics and used on a parka and trench-coat, creating a dialogue between the sartorial and sportswear.
It’s not an Hermès collection without their finely honed leather pieces. The standouts of this collection include a hooded sports jacket done in a supple burgundy crocodile and a calf-leather over-sized T-shirt. Both pieces demonstrate the playfulness of the collection by contrasting the formal and informal.
The neutral palette of blacks, olives and browns were punctuated with warm spicy hues like red wine, cumin and burnt orange. The unexpected inclusion of lime green and purple veered the collection away from the classical, imbuing a sense of youthful freedom that defined the mood of the season.